Spain Road Trip the epilogue “Back in the USA” Originally emailed April 4, 2015

To paraphrase Lennon and McCartney, “Been away so long we hardly knew the place, gee it’s great to be back home”.

In Spain, we left behind great times, great memories and great friends.  The one thing (actually two things) we left in Madrid that we will really miss is/are our two girls, Lindsay and Erica.  They return to LA on July 15th and it seems so long from now (101 days but who’s counting?).
Thank you for all the kind comments from readers.  I am thinking of making this into a blog, rather than an email, so people don’t have to be bothered if they were just being polite when asked if they wanted to be keeped in the loop.
Next time you will be hearing from me will be in May when we start our USA road trip (yet to be named).  We fly to St. Louis to see the Pirates and Cardinals (Go Bucs!) but the final itinerary from there is still undecided.  We know that we will be heading south (to New Orleans) then west to Phoenix and then north through the national parks and end up in Denver.  Suggestions as always would be welcomed.
Goodbye for now,
Robert

Spain Road Trip Day #14 (and #7) “The End is in Sight” Originally emailed on April 2, 2015

Sorry about the little April Fool’s joke yesterday.  It certainly got a huge response so it is good to know that people are still readIng this drivel.

Today is the last full day on the road with our girls.  We are in the charming town of Potes in the Picos de Europa Parque Nacional (Peaks of Europe National Park).  We are staying in the Spanish equivalent to a B&B. Unfortunately the place we are staying is located about 3km from the town’s main center of activity (too long for a walk and not a smart drive if you want to drink) and the breakfast (isn’t that the main reason to go to a B&B) was a huge disappointment.  The walls of the rooms are paper thin so we can hear our neighbors use the shower and toilet which is similar to many B&Bs in the states but hearing them brush their teeth was a first for me.

Today we went for a ride on the Teleférico. It is a tram that takes you from the mountain base (elevation 3,510 ft) to the summit (elevation 5,981 ft) in 3 minutes and forty seconds.  It is a spectacular trip of pure terror for those of us not very fond of heights.  When you arrive at the top you are greeted with mounds of snow (see attached).  It is a similar experience to the tram outside of Palm Springs.

Dinner was an amazing experience.  We dined at Cafe Cayo where we were served chuletas (beef ribs).  Knowing that the Spaniards like their meat close to raw we asked that it be prepared well done (see attached).  As you can see something might have been lost in translation.

Adios, until tomorrow when we return to Madrid.

Roberto

potes well done spanish style

Spain Road Trip Day #13 (and #6) “The 1st Day of the Rest of My Life” Originally emailed on April 1, 2015

Today my life changed forever.  As most of you know I have had an ongoing love affair with the country of Spain. Today I met with a long time friend (Rodrigo Jiménez Hidalgo) who spoke with me about being an American living in Spain.  According to Rodrigo one needs to file a “Solicitud De Residencia Extranjera” to the Oficina de Inmigracion in Madrid.  Well lucky for me Rodrigo works there and my documents have been completed, filed and approved.

I know this seems quite sudden but those near and dear to me know I have been thinking about this move for years.  I called Robyn and David this morning before making the final decision.  They are totally supportive and even talked about joining us for the summers so the boys can improve their Spanish and not forget their abuelos (grandparents).
We return this weekend as planned and anticipate it will take 3 months to get our affairs in order for the move.  As you know, I am not the type to pull April Fool’s Jokes.  I think they can be cruel and insensitive and just not for me……….. well there is a first time for everything……. April Fool’s!
El Payaso (The Clown)
Roberto

Spain Road Trip Day #12 (and #5) “On the Road Again” Originally emailed on March 31, 2015

Another great day for the Reiss family in Spain.  We had a wonderful tour of the city of Santander with our guide, Pilar.  She was (like Esther in San Sebastián) very amenable to our needs.  She knew we were English speakers but when we tried to speak in Spanish she went with the flow.  The majority of her information was spoken in Spanish but she quickly added English when we lost our understanding.  One of the things she showed us that I found very intriguing were some remnants of trees that needed to be removed.  Apparently the local arborist is a sculptor as well.  He has crafted swans, chairs, mushrooms and elves from the residual stumps (see attached).  We also got to see the local lighthouse (did someone tip Pilar off about my lighthouse obsession?).

After our tour we headed back toward San Sebastián to the city of Bilbao and the home of the Guggenheim Museum.  Before starting our museum visit we had lunch at a fantastic bar discovered by Lindsay.  I am really getting into the pintxo eating system.  I even enjoy the caña (beer) drinking.  Those of you on this list who know me well probably had to read that last sentence twice.  Yes, I enjoy the beer and sangria here.  In fact I probably have had more to drink this trip than I had to drink in all of 2014 back home.
After our 3 PM lunch we headed over to the Guggenheim.  The museum was designed by Frank Gehry (USC School of Architecture class of 1954, Fight On!).  Gehry also designed the Disney Music Hall in Los Angeles and the Guggenheim in Bilbao looks like a replica but much larger.
Hasta luego,
Roberto
tree chair

Spain Road Trip Day #11 (and #4) Originally emailed on March 30, 2015

Today was a travel day and we left San Sebastián bright and early (that means at about noon here in Spain).  We then drove to Guernica a small town (population about 16,000) that is best known for being the site of a Nazi bombing (with the permission of Spanish Generalissimo Francisco Franco) on April 26, 1937.  In a 3 hour bombing raid 1,654 civilians were killed.  The bombing was the inspiration for the Picasso painting named for the town.  The painting’s meaning has had many interpretations but certainly the horrors of war are most prominent amongst its themes.  Picasso asked that it not be exhibited inSpain until the dictator (Franco) was removed and liberty and democracy had been established in the country.  It finally came to Spain in 1981 and now hangs in Museo Reina Sofia (in Madrid) but a mosaic replica is located in Guernica only steps from the memorial (see attached).

After leaving Guernica it was on to Santander where we are staying at the beautiful Gran Hotel Sardinero.  After checking into our rooms (very nice) we went for a walk (aka more food).  No pig’s ears or lamb’s hands today. We had some yummy quiche (no I’m not a real man) and a variety of other pintxos.

On the way back to the hotel we met a 75 year old retired gentleman who explained to us the significance of a local landmark and then proceeded to tell us much of his life story (he was a merchant marine in the Persian Gulf during the 1st Iraqi war, traveled to New Orleans and Brazil amongst other places) then he finally began to serenade us while taking me (not any of the girls) by the arm as he sang.  Yes it was a bit weird (even forSpain).

But the highlight of the day was when we had a FaceTime session with the grandsons/nephews: Owen (6 years old) and Charlie (2 years old). They got us caught up on the happenings in their lives.  For example we found out that when the clouds block the sun Charlie tells Robyn, “Mommy, sun needs batteries”.   We saw, Owen was eating an ice cream sandwich.  I asked him if it was good to which he replied, “I don’t know……… let’s go with yes.” (He clearly has been hanging out with his father).  The conversation also included a discussion about dogs and Owen asked for some clarification, “What’s a Golden Receiver?”
Spain is great but those boys are our superstars.
I would love to write more but hey, it is 10pm and time for dinner.
Roberto
picasso

Spain Road Trip Day #10 (and #3) “A Wonderful Day in the Basque Country” Originally emailed on March 29, 2015

Today we had an 8 hour tour with our wonderful guide, Esther.  She gave us a fantastic tour of the town and pinxto bars yesterday and today we explored much of the surrounding communities and more of the city.

When I was here 4 years ago I visited the fire station and received a lovely gift of a firefighter shirt that says firefighter in Spanish (Bombero) and Basque (Suhiltzaileak).  I felt bad that I had nothing to give my new friend in return.  Today I had my chance to repay him. The fire station had moved but with the help of our guide (and Google Maps) we found the new station.  My friend was off on holiday but I got a chance to speak to him by phone and make two new friends at the station (see attached photo with me in my San Sebastián firefighter shirt and my two new friends).  I also got to leave a present for him in return for his kindness 4 years ago (a Westchester Medical Group shirt and a shirt from fire station #70 in Malibu).
In addition to seeing the towns of Zarautz, Getaria, Zumaia, Astigarraga, and Hondarribia, we also visited the San Sebastián sights of Mt. Igelda and Peine de Viento. We got to have an incredible lunch at the Petritegi Cider House in Astigarraga.  I didn’t like the cider very much but my girls seemed to love it…should I be worried?
Dinner was an adventure where we tried Kokotxas de merluza (Hake Gullet). It was not a success with our group.
Tomorrow we leave for Santander.  We were suppose to go to the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao on our way but it is closed on Mondays.  Some poor planning but we will have to make some alternative plans.  I am sure all will work out, well at least I hope it will.
Hasta mañana,
Roberto
san sebastion firefighters

Spain Road Trip Day #9 (and #2) “What to see in San Sebastián?……. Let’s eat and drink!” Originally emailed March 28, 2015

Today was our “Culinary Delight” Tour of the City.  The tour was due to start at 12 but lunch in this country doesn’t start until 2 pm.  So our wonderful tour guide showed us the various sites of the city.  We got to see the Cathedral (this is Spain, what is life without a cathedral?), shopping area, royal palace, ocean (this place has nothing on Hermosa Beach in regards to an ocean or beach) and then we moved on to the bars.

We enjoyed all sorts of wonderful things to eat.  We had pig’s ear, cod stomach, veal cheeks and Hake egg sac (see attached photo of me about to down some of those unborn little Hake babies).
After the tour we took a brief rest at the room and then went to a Basque singing/dance performance at a local theater. The theater was lovely but the performers will not be seen on Broadway in the near future.  One dancer fell, another lost his sash (belt) and a third didn’t come on stage until the group routine was about half completed.
The performance ended at about 9:30 letting us get back on the town just about time for dinner.  We revisited two places from last night’s eating frenzy.   At the first we stuck with some big winners from our first trip and added some new treasures tonight.  Last night we finished off our pintxo (pincho) experience with the most amazing cheesecake ever eaten.  Tonight we had to go back to make sure it wasn’t a fluke or a dream.  It was as good as we remembered (or even better).  I think a third trip is almost a guarantee for tomorrow night.
Until later,
Roberto aka “el gordo”
robert eating roe

Spain Road Trip Day #8 (and Day 1) “On the Road Again” Originally emailed March 27, 2015

Erica and I got an early start and picked up our rental car. That went smoothly but the drive to pick up Lindsay and Patrice was a much different story.  I will spare you the gory details and just say we got back safely and did not kill any Spanish commuters in the process.

Then it was off to our first destination of San Sebastián in the Basque Country. Getting out of the city made me feel right at home because traffic was very similar to the stop and go traffic we see daily in Los Angeles.
En route to San Sebastián we stopped for lunch in the town of Burgos, the home of El Cid (known to US moviegoers as Charlton Heston).  What to order for lunch was a challenge.  I was undecided between Blood Sausage, Marinade Beef Nose or Young Lamb Hands.   I chose the roasted chicken.  At the bar we saw an interesting customer (see attached).  I think he was asking for a salty dog.
After lunch we toured the cathedral which was constructed from 1221 to 1567.  It has been designated as a World Heritage site by UNESCO and it was one of the most beautiful cathedrals I have ever seen.
When we arrived in San Sebastián it was raining but fortunately it quickly cleared. After a little rest and conferring with the hotel staff we decided it was time to visit the Tapas Bars (in Spain Bar means Restaurant).  It is standard for Spaniards to go to a bar, tasting the Tapas (appetizers) that are the specialty of the house and then move on to the next bar.  We managed to hit 3 bars (we are newbies of course) and were very impressed with each one.
Tomorrow’s tour is suppose to be a “Culinary Delight” showing us the various Tapas bars in the town.  This trip is shaping up to rival last year’s Pseudo Freedom Ride in regards to being a food-fest.
Bon Appétit,
Robert

bon appetite

Spain road trip Day #7 “Superstar sighting and why people in Spain are thin” Originally emailed on March 26, 2015

Today was a spectacular day.  Erica arranged for us to see her at work as a teacher.  For those of you who do not know, Erica and Lindsay are teaching English to elementary school age children this year (and have signed up to return again next year, sob, sob).  Patrice and I got to see a superstar in action.  Erica was fantastic.  The children and her compañeros (fellow teachers) all seem to love her (see attached).  Patrice and I were sort of superstars ourselves.  The class spent the first hour asking us probing questions such as what is our favorite color, who is our favorite futbol player, what is our favorite color, do we live in the country of California like Erica and of course, what is our favorite color.

After leaving Erica at school we went back to the hotel to get some rest since we still have not adjusted completely to the time change.  When we returned we took the stairs instead of the ascensor (elevator).  We did this in spite of our room being on the 3rd floor (lobby is floor zero) because of my fear of Spanish elevators.  I love this country and the people who live here but my confidence in the operation of their machines is less than optimal.  Getting in a Spanish elevator is something I do only when completely desperate.   When I studied Spanish here (for only two weeks) the class was on the 6th floor and I never saw the inside of the elevator once.  I am convinced that Spaniards share my caution and for that reason (and also since they seem to walk everywhere) they are so thin.
Tomorrow we take off on the Road Trip part of our vacation.  I am not sure if I will have internet access daily so my emails might not reach you everyday (is that applause and a sigh of relief I am hearing?).
Hasta la próxima vez (Until next time),
Roberto
erica at school

Spain Road Trip day #6 “Our Girls are All Grow-ed Up” Originally emailed March 25, 2015

First let me say happy birthday again to my mommy who is 99 years old today. May I be so lucky in longevity and maintenance of my wits as she has been.  I call her every daywhen I am in the States and she repeatedly puts me in awe by the things she says.

Today we arrived in Madrid.  We had a fairly bumpy ride and I rarely sleep on a plane so this trip was no exception.  We got to the girl’s apartment by about 8:30 AM (3:30 AM Eastern Time) where we were greeted by Erica.  She got us situated (called the hotel and conversed fluently in Spanish) and then left for work.  Patrice and I slept at their place since our hotel room was not yet available.
When we awoke we met up with Lindsay who had a doctor’s appointment.  I was very impressed how she traversed the medical system.  Her Spanish has gotten amazing since we last saw her in early October.
Both girls seem so at home in Madrid.  They can manage the metro, interact with the locals and know their way around the city.  It makes me so proud to see them all grow-ed up.
The weather here is much better than New York but is still very cold for this weak Californian.  Unfortunately things are not looking up.  When the road trip actually begins on Friday we will be in San Sabastián where rain is in the forecast.
A daily post would not be complete without a picture.  Please see attached the Spanish version of a man’s urinal.  Guys you better have good aim in this country.
Hasta luego,
Roberto
spain urinal