The Road to Rio Day #8 “Just When You Think You Have Seen It All”

What an amazing day!  We had a relaxing morning and then were picked up by our guide, Martin, and driver, Lucas.  They were due to pick us up at 11:00 AM but our experience has been that everyone has arrived about 15 minutes early.  With that in mind we got to the lobby a bit early but they were nowhere to be found.  At 10:58 I said to Patrice “This might be the first time our escorts have been late”.  No sooner had I said the words when the bellman announced, “Ellos estan aqui” (They are here). We have been told that when an Argentinian arrives 15 minutes late he/she is actually 5 minutes early. Well you can’t tell that by our experience.  The guides and drivers have been perfect.

Today we were taken to see the Perito Moreno glacier.  Martin had a flare for drama.  He was describing the history of the area and the glacier and then with his back to the road, as we turned the corner, he said “and now we have this” and as if being cued by its director we saw the magnificent glacier.  After a brief stop to see the glacier from afar we drove to the boat dock for a ride that brought us incredibly close to the massive structure.  Next Martin took us on a stroll (I would be lying if I called it a hike) to see the glacier from various observation points.  We were lucky to see some sections of the glacier dislodge into the lake. The sounds reminded me of a cross between squeaking wood and thunder. Unfortunately if you waited to hear the sounds you had already missed the ice falling so we had to keep our eyes fixed on the mountain of ice to see these phenomenons of nature.
I took about one hundred pictures (which again don’t do the sights justice) today.  It was hard to pick only a few for the blog. Needless to say this was a very special day.
Many of you have asked me about the food.  We had some great meals in Buenos Aires but El Calafate has been a disappointment. Below you can see tonight’s entrees.  At least they looked good.
Travel day tomorrow.
Hasta luego,
Roberto
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Patrice and I holding a heart shaped fragment from the glacier.  Martin retrieved it (we aren’t crazy enough to do that).
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Dinner: Not nearly as good tasting as they look.

The Road to Rio Day #7 “¿Quieres ‘Mate’?”

Today was our day to see some of the Glaciers of Patagonia.  They were billed as an incredible sight.  And indeed they were. Please see the photos below that of course don’t do justice to the beautiful and awe inspiring experience.

As many of the readers of this blog already know I’m much more interested in interacting with people than I am seeing sights.  Patrice and I conversed with a bunch of people on board the catamaran that carried us to the glaciers.  One Argentinian custom we have learned about was drinking the “mate” (“Mah Tay”).  “Mate” is an infusion.  They put herbs in a cup and add hot water.  Then they drink the liquid through a metal straw with a strainer that prevents the herb from getting into your mouth.
We saw numerous people drinking “mate” on the boat (see below). When we asked different people about the custom, they ALL offered to share the “mate” with us (using the same straw, of course). We declined each time making them think we were a couple of uptight Americans when in reality were are just a couple of germaphobe Americans.

Hasta luego,

Roberto
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And our Captain with his “Mate” close at hand on the control panel.
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Road to Rio Day #6 “Travel Day, Yawn”

Today was a travel day. We left our hotel shortly after 9 AM escorted by our driver, Mariano, from our first 3 days in Buenos Aires.  We have been incredibly impressed by the efficiency of our tour guides. Everyone has been very prompt, helpful and friendly.

We were taken to El Calafate via Aerolineas Argentina.  It was a 3 hour flight in very cramped quarters.  Luckily we had an empty seat next to us allowing some stretching that would otherwise be impossible.

The flight was relatively smooth and after landing they announced (in Spanish) that we had arrived safely in El Calafate at which point almost the entire cabin of people started to applaud.  Possibly, making it to your destination is an Argentinian rarity worthy of an ovation?
As has become our expectation we were greeted by our guide, Martin, and driver, Lucas, immediately upon leaving El Calafate airport baggage claim (a guy could get use to this) and they oriented us to our itinerary on our way to the hotel.  The hotel is another beautiful facility with amazing staff but it is a bit of a walk from the town’s main area of activity.  That shouldn’t be much of a problem and might help us sleep.
I was up late trying to watch the USC-ASU football game by linking my netbook with my office computer and the Watch ESPN website.  It was great in theory but things didn’t work out so well.  I am happy to report that I was wrong with my prediction and the Trojans won.
Tomorrow we need to board a bus at 7:30.  I needed to get some sleep so decided to get in some training for tomorrow (see below).   The hotel obviously wants us to be able to sleep so provided us a few pillows (see below).  In addition to those on the bed there are two more in the closet.
I know this was a boring entry but after all this blog is only intended to inform my mom that her baby is still alive.  Mama, I am still with us.
I hope to have some more exciting information tomorrow.
Hasta luego,
Roberto
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The Road to Rio Day # 5. “It Takes Two to Tango”

Today we started off with another city tour. Although our guide, Patricia, was great she was from a different company than Diego so we were taken to many sites that we had already seen. This was poor planning but not a horrible tragedy.

At night we went to a dinner/tango show. I was prepared for a mediocre dinner and a tacky touristy show that would put me to sleep. I was right about the dinner but couldn’t have been more wrong about the show.

The tango show consisted of a band, two singers, 4 young couples and a couple who looked like they could be a grandfather and his granddaughter.
The singers were terrific.
The 4 young couples had incredible bodies and they were amazing athletes. It was hard to imagine some of the moves they performed. As the show went on the women wore less and less clothing. Needless to say I didn’t fall asleep.
The grandfather looking guy was a fantastic dancer.  I only hope that his partner isn’t his granddaughter because if she is their routines would be very creepy.  They were creepy enough considering their age difference (okay, okay, yes I was envious).
It was a wonderful night.
Hasta luego,
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Roberto and Patrice at the Tango Show

The Road to Rio Day #4 “Here’s the Beef”

Today was our last day with our wonderful guide, Diego and driver, Mariano.  They took us to see La Boca, an area near the river that was the site of the original inhabitants of the city and later immigrants.  This is a poorer area of the city but attempts are being made to improve conditions.  Many of the homes have been converted to shops and they are made of some of the materials available at the time of the first settlers (specifically remnants from the ships that brought them here). The stores and homes are very colorful (see below).  Diego warned us that this area is fine during the day but not very safe at night.  No problem with that, this gringo knows what’s best for him.
We also took a tour of the opera house which was absolutely magnificent.  Unfortunately timing will not permit us to see a performance at this wonderful venue but that just gives us one more reason to return.
We also visited a book store that was previously a theater.  This too was a work of art. Made me feel guilty that I read all my books on the Kindle.
Diego recommended that we have dinner at La Cabrera (The Goatherder).  Interestingly the restaurant has 3 separate locations all within 100 steps of each other.  All three were packed and could not seat us.  We noted some empty tables outside one of the restaurants and they said we could sit there immediately.  They had outdoor heaters (remember I am with Patrice) so we decided to seize the opportunity.
Our meal was amazing.  We shared a steak and an order of potatoes with caramelized onions and both of us felt stuffed.  We have learned not to ask for our steak medium but rather medium well.  The meat arrived very pink and incredibly tasty.  We have learned that the Argentinians are similar to the Spaniards in that they prefer their meat cooked so you can still hear the cow calling for its mother while you are eating.  Medium is almost raw.  Medium-well works for me.  If you ask for Well-done they ask you to leave (the country).
Hasta luego,
Roberto
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The Road to Rio Day #3. “Evita and other Argentinian Treasures”

Today we toured a great deal of the city with our guide, Diego, and driver, Mariano. Diego taught us about the history of Argentina and specifically Buenos Aires.  We were able to learn about the current political situation, the economy and of course the country’s continued infatuation with Eva Peron.  We saw a monument erected to honor Evita and her grave site (see below).  As you might be able to see there are flowers at the grave site.  Diego told us that people place flowers there daily even thought it has been over 60 years since she died.

We toured the cathedral where Pope Francis supervised services as Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio.  We also were able to see a synagogue and Museo Judio (Jewish Museum).  We were shocked to find out that there are about 250,000 Jews in Buenos Aires and about 400,000 in the country.  It is hard to believe there are so many Jews in a country that I thought was a post World War II haven for Nazis.  Later in the evening we saw two men walking down the street wearing yarmulkes so I suppose those numbers might be correct.

No blog entry would be complete without a little discussion about food. Tonight Patrice and I had the ice cream cones to end all ice cream cones (see below).  We found this place (www.tufic-helados.com) last night but luckily we didn’t have any cash.  Tonight we weren’t so lucky so an attack on our cardiovascular system was the result.  I had menta granizada (mint chip) and dulce de leche granizada (you figure that one out).  After downing those monstrosities I needed to go to a gym and work out.  Instead I took a nap.
Tomorrow we head to parts unknown.
Helado luego, oops I meant hasta luego.  I guess I can’t stop thinking about that ice cream.
Roberto
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The Road to Rio Day #2 “The Motorcycle Diaries”

As most of you know the reason for this blog is to keep my 99 year old mother informed of the happenings in her baby boy’s life.  So first of all let me make one thing clear.  A motorcycle will not be part of this trip or any trip in my future.  Don’t let the title of this entry worry you mama.

Many of you have read the book or seen the movie entitled, “Motorcycle Diaries”.  It is the story of a young doctor learning the realities of life in South America during a motorcycle trip through the continent.  It was the start of the transition of young Dr. Ernesto Guevara into revolutionary Che Guevara.  What does this have to do with us?  Well Patrice and I are in the Che Guevara room of the Legado Mitico hotel in Buenos Aires.  There are pictures of Che all over the room (see below).
The hotel is lovely and the attendants are extremely nice.  They recommended a nearby restaurant called Don Julio.  We had an outstanding meal and our first taste of the famous Argentinian beef.  My mouth is watering as I write.
Prior to dinner we explored the area and found the streets and sidewalks in varying degrees of disrepair.  There is a tremendous amount of graffiti on the walls.  We look forward to starting our tour in earnest (no pun intended) tomorrow.
We met our first tour guide (Diego) this morning when he and our driver (Mariano) picked up us at the airport.  What a pleasure to have people waiting for us to take our luggage and our exhausted bodies directly to the hotel.
We look forward to tomorrow and the continuation of our South American adventure.
¡Viva la revolución!   Hmmm, I think I might need to change rooms.
Hasta mañana,
Roberto
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The Road to Rio Day #1 “On The Road Again”

Well not exactly on the road, more like up, up and away.  We are currently on our way from LAX for EZE also known as Buenos Aires, Argentina.  First we have to stop at JFK in NYC so I thought I’d SMT (Share My Thoughts) while relaxing up here about 35,000 feet above the Earth’s surface.  I just love the fact that I can connect from the plane. Patrice and I were fortunate to get upgraded to Business Class so this should be a fun leg.  I was just wondering, do they serve those fudge sundaes for breakfast?

Thank you to the many friends who have asked when we are going on vacation, telling me that you look forward to my ramblings online.  You are very kind and it still amazes me that anyone wants to read this except my dear and wonderful mother.
Hopefully this trip will be less eventful than the previous National Park tour that was interrupted in Terlingua, Texas by my kidney stone.  It was a lot more fun writing about that 85 mile drive to the ER to Big Bend Regional Medical Center (and the kind hands of Dr. Kyle McCombs) than it was to experience it.
An interesting note about the blog is that when I had my stone, the hits on the site almost doubled.  Apparently my readers love hearing about me in pain and misery.  I will keep that in mind when I write to you this trip.
No kidney stone so far but I did have the usual painful experience through TSA.  As usual they did their bang up job making sure no one brought a pen knife aboard the plane.  Not sure why they worry about a passenger bringing a knife when 60 minutes into the flight our flight attendant gave us 2 each (see photo).
I need to stop writing now, because it is time to practice my Spanish.
Arrivederci, oops I mean hasta luego.
Roberto
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Roberto