Month: October 2022

Europe 2022 day #13. “Another Day in Heaven” Budapest, Hungary 10/19/2022

by reissmd, posted in Budapest, Hungary

Last night we had another wonderful dinner. This time it was at a restaurant recommended by our tour guide, Rézkakas Bistro Easy Terasz (Budapest, Sas u 3, 1051).  We had a great table close to the in-house music.  Check out this short 14-second video. 

Question of the day: What is the name of the instrument that is being played closest to the camera?

Breakfast at the hotel was amazing as expected. Patrice had an omelet (how boring) while I had the best eggs Benedict of my life. Sorry, no picture but I’ll try to get one tomorrow. The hotel continues to impress. The elevator requires your key to take you to your assigned room. No need to remove the card key from your wallet to get it to work. It also unlocks your room door by passing the key over a sensor close to the wall. All you need to do is to push the door open.

After breakfast, we met our guide, Julia, for a tour of the city. For those of you who are not aware, Budapest is a twin city. The cities of Buda and Pest are divided by the Danube River. It is often referred to as the Blue Danube but it didn’t look very blue to me. If you want to see blue go to Crater Lake in Oregon. Julia explained there are two types of people who live in Budapest, there are those who live in Buda and those who wished they lived in Buda. Yesterday, Julia took us on a 4-hour walking tour of Buda. We started with a boat ride on the Danube exiting on the Buda side. Buda is very hilly with lots of glorious views.

On Buda, we explored the Buda Castle, Royal Palace, Matyas church, and other beautiful sites. We saw a couple taking wedding pictures but they were already married. We also saw another couple taking wedding pictures who looked like it will be a miracle if they actually get married.

Today Julia took us around Pest (pronounce “pesht” not “pest” like having me around you). We went to the Museum of Terror which was not very terrifying nor was it very interesting. The Pest Synagogue, actually there are about 23 synagogues in Pest, the one we went to was the Dohány Street Synagogue. It is one of the biggest in the world but it looked more like a church. I suppose since it was designed by a non-Jew in the 1800s this is not a surprise.

Dohány Street Synagogue. What is your verdict, synagogue or church?

I am told there is almost an exact copy of this synagogue in New York. Next time we are in Manhattan I will have to check out the Central Synagogue. I saw the sign below upon exiting that made me think the NYC synagogue and this one might be the same.

Ad for a kosher restaurant on the synagogue fence? Are we in New York?

Not sure if this will help but here is a better picture of the instrument I asked you to identify. A hint, it is associated with Hungary and I am not referring to the two violins on top, or the bass on the side.

Any ideas?

Viszontlátásra (Once again that means goodbye and it is not the name of the instrument)

Europe 2022 Day #12 “Ryan Air? Please No, Anything But Ryan Air!”. Madrid, Spain; Budapest, Hungary 10/18/22

by reissmd, posted in Budapest, Hungary, Madrid

We had an amazing “Last Supper” with Erica last night at Restaurant El Valle (Calle de Sebastián Herrera, 6, 28012 Madrid).  The three of us shared a huge Hake fish (similar to Cod and Haddock).  The fish was filleted at the table and I am so glad it was.  The pre-filet appearance was fantastic, post-filet it didn’t look like something I would want to eat. 

Hake, pre-filet.
Hake, Post-filet

If you would like to see the 55-second video of the server doing the fileting here it is. It was great watching him do it but I think watching the video might be better for those dealing with insomnia.

Today was the day of our trip that I was dreading. Today we flew from Madrid to Budapest on Ryan Air.  You might be asking if I have such disdain for this carrier why did we book this flight?  Unfortunately, it was the only airline with a nonstop flight to Budapest on 10/18/2022.  The others would have taken many hours longer and routed us through Ukraine or North Korea (that last part was a joke if you couldn’t tell. But as my daughter, Lindsay, tells me, “If you have to say it’s a joke, it isn’t”). 

We did our job, arriving 2 hours prior to departure with our boarding passes in hand (let’s not rehash the fiasco that I told you about yesterday). We walked a fair distance to the Ryan Air check-in desks and saw a rather modest number of people on line.  The queue (how British of me) moved incredibly fast and then we were on our way to the gate.  

As is typical in Spain people started lining up to board long before any announcement that boarding would begin. 

Spaniards are on line to board 19 minutes before the scheduled boarding time and 49 minutes before takeoff.
Patrice and Robert 10 minutes AFTER boarding started.

Onboard we were given instructions in Spanish prior to take-off. I couldn’t understand a word making me very depressed about the quality of my Spanish.   Then they gave what I assume were the same instructions in English speaking so rapidly that I understood nothing.  At least I could feel a little better about my Spanish. We finally took off at 8:38, about 13 minutes late (or 20 minutes early if you usually fly American).  In spite of leaving late, we landed 17 minutes early (1 day early if you usually fly American).  Maybe I misjudged Ryan Air? They might be a budget carrier but they seem to have efficiency as their goal.  It was a great flight.

One other note about Spaniards and their flying etiquette, in addition to lining up to board long before it is necessary (we all had assigned seats so what’s the point?) they have one other curious behavior. On every Spanish flight, I have been on, the passengers applaud after landing. I wonder if they would boo if we crashed.

We were picked up from Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport (BUD) and driven to Aria Hotel Budapest where will be staying in Budapest. This place is AMAZING. Let me rephrase that, THIS PLACE IS AMAZING. I already told our travel agent to cancel the rest of our trip because we will not be leaving this room. I also contacted a real estate agent to sell our house because we are never going to leave this room. The room is spacious. The bathroom is gigantic. We have a very roomy shower and a separate bathtub. The room is very high-tech with lots of gadgets. Downstairs there is a spa with a sauna, hot tub, and swimming pool. Also, an area to just relax. Breakfast is included and I can’t wait to see that after seeing the pastries in their “bar”. From 4-6 PM, they offer wine and cheese. I don’t drink alcohol but I might have to start.

What a great day. Oh, did I tell you we took a 4-hour walking tour of the city? I would like to talk more but Patrice and I have to schedule our massages.

How fun to see your name on your TV (Patrice, sorry they didn’t mention you)
Piano hallway/lobby with real piano. Breakfast and afternoon treats served here.
Hot tub and swimming pool.
High-Tech shower. I hope I can figure it out.
Bathtub that looks like lots of fun.
Towel warmer to make sure you are comfortable when leaving the bath or shower.
His and her bathrobes.
His and her slippers.
Why doesn’t every hotel room supply you with a Makeup Towel?
And lastly a little chocolate gift on your bed prior to going to sleep.

What a wonderful day. Tomorrow couldn’t possibly match it. Or could it?

Oops, I almost forgot, yesterday’s question. Obviously many of my followers are smarter than me. A number of you gave the correct answer. Window shades on the planes are kept open during takeoff and landing to allow the flight crew to assess any emergencies happening outside the plane. Good work team. I will try to come up with a better question next time.

Viszontlátásra (Good bye)

Europe 2022 day #11. “Why Can’t Things Ever be Simple?” Madrid, Spain 10/17/2022

by reissmd, posted in Madrid

Last night we had a wonderful dinner at a bar near our hotel.  You have to remember when I say bar in Madrid we are actually talking about a restaurant.  The food was good and it was nice catching up with Erica.  It has been difficult for me to have her live so far away but I’ve come to accept it.  I think our visit in 2021 was the first time I didn’t cry when we said our goodbyes.  Hopefully, this trip will be the same but don’t bet on it.

During dinner, Erica mentioned that Ryan Air requires you to check in online and print your own boarding passes.  We had booked our Ryan Air flight through an agency recommended by both of our travel agents for the trip.  The agency they recommended did not tell us anything about checking in online or printing our own boarding passes.  I emailed the agency last night and when I didn’t see a reply I called this morning and left a message.  Their voicemail said they would call back in less than 10 minutes. Twenty-five minutes later I sent another email.  I finally got a reply saying there would be an extra charge for our luggage and asked for authorization to use the credit card on file.  Now steam was exiting my ears.  I replied that when we asked them to make the reservation we told them we each would have a suitcase and a backpack.  I told them they could use my credit card but I was not happy.  Finally, I got a reply that the agent misread our booking and there wouldn’t be any additional charges.  He also sent me our boarding passes.  We used this agency at the recommendation of our travel agents so as to avoid aggravation such as this.  So sometimes paying a little extra for special service is NOT worth the money.  Live and learn. 

We visited Erica at work today and had a bite to eat with 3 of her compañeros. It was a great opportunity to practice our Spanish and meet the people she spends her days with. I tried to convince them that she is not to be trusted and should be deported immediately to the USA. Unfortunately, they were not buying it and it looks like she will be staying after we leave.

Tonight we will meet Erica for dinner. Two of our Spanish friends were planning to join us but they had to cancel due to a serious illness in the family.  It’s amazing how many friends we have here and I always feel bad because we can’t see all of them every trip.  We did have a brief coffee with Angelica who I’ve known since my third trip here in 2008.  She is a real delight and I refer to her as my Spanish mother because she and her ex-husband, Juan Carlos, always took such great care of me during my visits.

Angelica (my “Spanish Mother”, Patrice (my “American mother”) and “the baby”.

Tomorrow we have an early flight to Budapest on Ryan Air.  If you haven’t flown Ryan Air consider yourself lucky.  It’s always an experience. 

I always ask Patrice to proofread my blog. Today she said, “It’s a lot of complaining and not that funny.” I told her people who read this know me and that I complain a lot and I’m not that funny.

A little question for the readers of the blog. Do you know why the airlines ask you to open your window shades during take offs and landings? Please put your answer in the comments and I will give you the correct response tomorrow (if I remember to do it).

Nos vemos en Budapest mañana. (see you in Budapest tomorrow).

Hasta Luego. 

Europe 2022 day #10. “Where Is My Baby?” Madrid, Spain 10/16/2022

by reissmd, posted in Madrid, Venice, Italy

Last night we went to the opera and watched a performance of Giuseppe Verdi’s “La Traviata”.  The theater was formerly a palace and the work was performed by a very small ensemble.  There were three musicians and three singers.  The opera has three acts and each was performed in a different room with a 10-minute intermission allowing the audience to move to the next venue.  It was very enjoyable and I would consider going to another opera in the future.  Does anyone know when “Porgy and Bess” will be performed locally?

Upon entering we were greeted with this warning advice.
“Violetta” taking her bows. The room was very hot and unfortunately, we were in the back during every act.

We then had another great dinner, this time at Ristorante Acqua Pazza (S. Marco, 3808, 30124 Venezia VE).  We had an appetizer of Parma Prosciutto and Melon, followed by Pasta with Lobster for Patrice and Amberjack for me.  For those of you who never heard of Amberjack, join the club.  It is a very tasty fish and I was very pleased. 

Prosciutto and melon. Sorry, we were almost done eating it before I remembered to take a picture.

Today we left Venice and flew to Madrid. We went to the Venice airport (VCE) via water taxi followed by a standard taxi (if you consider a Mercedes standard). We were accompanied by our guide Anna Lisa who told us some facts about Venice that our previous guides either didn’t tell us or the information went in one ear and out the other.  It must have been the former since Patrice didn’t recall these tidbits.  If it had just been me I would assume it passed untouched threw my empty head.  

Traversing through the Venice airport went smoothly.  After making it through security we relaxed in the lounge waiting for our flight.  I got a bit of a fright because I dozed off prior to our 11:55 flight only to see this sign when I awoke

I initially thought it was 10 minutes after four but I soon realized it was the 16th of October. Phew!

Leaving the lounge I had a chance to see how far my Italian had progressed.   When we left I said “Grazie” (thank you) to the front desk clerk and she immediately replied in English.  I guess my Italian needs a little more work. 

The flight to Madrid went well, but the highlight of our trip was being greeted at the MAD airport by our favorite driver, our wonderful daughter Erica.  She brought us to our hotel and then lead us through a traditional Madrid activity.  We did laundry.  We still have 2 weeks left on our vacation so it was either do laundry or pay the tour company an additional fee for “hazard pay”. 

Patrice, Robert, and Erica at the laundromat.

After finishing the laundry, we got ready for dinner.  Erica and Patrice went to the hotel gym to work out and I took a nap.

I am looking forward to tomorrow when we do…….  Actually, I don’t know what we will be doing. 

Ciao.  

Oops, we are no longer in Italy. 

Hasta luego. 

Europe 2022 day #9. “Oops, I Was Wrong?” Venice, Italy 10/15/2022

by reissmd, posted in Italy, Venice, Italy

When I left you yesterday we were on our way to the opera.  Well, at least I thought we were.  Turns out that last night we went to the Chiesa Della Pieta, also referred to as the “Vivaldi Church” to hear a string ensemble play Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”.  They also played pieces by Handel and Bach.  For an encore, we were treated to “Recomposed: by Max Richter, Vivaldi – The Four Seasons”.   The group was excellent.  Patrice spoke to one of the musicians after the performance and found out that the group was part of a 40-piece orchestra the musicians rotate playing at the venue.  This was a real treat.  Interesting to me was that just like at La Scala in Milan, the musicians did not talk to the audience before, during, or after the performance.  

Video of the Vivaldi church prior to the concert:

Vivaldi church. All seats are the same price. We just got lucky.

Video of ensemble playing “Recomposed by Max Richter”.  I hope this doesn’t break any copyright rule and bring down my site.

Recomposed by Max Richter: Vivaldi The Four Seasons.

After the brief concert (a little over one hour) we went to dinner at Vecia Cavana (Via Tera Santi Apostoli, 4624, 30121 Venezia VE).  We have been using Google Maps to get around and when I put in the restaurant as the destination it gave me two estimates, 17 minutes by car (no cars in Venice) or 16 by foot.  For obvious reasons, we decided to walk.  We could only get a late reservation and since the concert was very short we arrived very early.  I spoke to the maître d’ and said we were a little early (about 40 minutes to be more precise).  He said we would have to wait, about 5 or 10 minutes.  That was great and he asked us to sit outside and that he would send out an “aperitif”.  Moments later a server came out with two glasses with a pinkish liquid.  Patrice asked what they were and he said, “It’s a secret” but finally fessed up that they were grapefruit juice and ginger.  They were delicious and really made us feel wanted by the staff (who doesn’t want to feel wanted?).  A few minutes later we were escorted to our table.  The server explained that Vecia means old and Cavana is a place to store a boat.  The restaurant is located at the site of a 16th-century boathouse, thus the name. 

At Vecia Cavana in Venice. Notice two things. The lovely aperitifs sent by the maitre d’ and my reflection in the mirror. I took (and deleted) a photo with me a little further back showing a profile shot I would prefer. to ignore.

We had an excellent meal and really enjoyed the restaurant’s piano player. At one point he started playing “Here Comes the Bride” and they brought out a cake with the number 50 because a couple from Texas was celebrating their 50th anniversary that night.  They told us that they were on an anniversary celebration trip lasting the entire month of October and would be meeting their 5 children at the end of the trip in Rome.  

We are not far behind them.

Today we had a free day and my tour guide, and wife outdid the professionals.  First, we went to the Peggy Guggenheim museum.  It was small but very impressive.  There were a lot of Picassos, Magrittes, and other famous artists’ works.  Max Ernst has a number of pieces and we found out he was married to Peggy Guggenheim from 1942-1946. He also had three other wives spanning from 1918 (when he was 27) until his death in 1978. According to Wikipedia, there was not one year during that time that he didn’t have a wife. I guess he hated having just cereal in the morning.

From there we took the water bus to San Giorgio island where we toured the Basilica Di San Giorgio Maggiore.  They had a temporary exhibit beyond belief. It was a huge Murano glass sculpture by artist Ai Wei Wei from China.  It’s made of over 2,000 pieces of handcrafted Murano black glass.  It is six meters wide and nine meters high.  It is the largest hanging sculpture made of Murano glass in the world. Please look at these pictures and keep in mind it is all glass.  

Wei Wei’s Murano glass sculpture
Close-up view of part of the same piece.

In addition to the atrium glass masterpiece, there were a series of Lego sculptures in the hallway, depicting the various Chinese Zodiac signs. These specialties were also made by Wei Wei.  

The Rooster
2022 is the year of the Tiger. Sorry, this looks more like a Bear to me.

After that, we paid to go to the top of the Campanile Tower and we were treated to marvelous views from the tower.  If you look at this video you will see a number of boats in the Grand Canal.  Apparently, there is a regatta tomorrow and these boats will be participating.  You will be able to tell (if your sound is turned on) when it is 2:30 because you will hear the bell and see the picture wobble as I almost dropped my camera (and became temporarily deaf).

Now it is off to the opera.  Hmmm, I just had a deja vu moment.   

We leave Venice tomorrow so I am not sure when I will post next.  Tomorrow is a very special day because we will be seeing the most important person on our trip.  More about that tomorrow.

Ciao

Europe 2022 day #9. “A Three Island Tour”  Murano, Burano, Torcello, Italy 10/14/2022

by reissmd, posted in Burano, Italy, Murano, Italy, Torcello, Italy

After another amazing breakfast, we were greeted by our guide, Daria, for a 3 island tour. Venice is made up of over 100 islands (we have been told 117, 118, 120, and 123, so I can’t guarantee which number is correct). Today we visited 3 of them (I can guarantee you that number is accurate), Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

We first ventured via water taxi to Murano, an island inhabited by about 5,000 people. It is known for its world-famous glass-blowing. We were shown around one of the factories (I should really say art studio) by Piero who gives the tours, sells the items, and also makes the artwork. He told us that he learned the process from his grandfather who was a very famous glassmaker. We got to see the artisans in action and it was very impressive. Piero showed us the family tree of one of the sculptors that showed his ancestors were blowing glass since the 1400s. He has no children so after 600 years of glassblowing his family will no longer practice this art.

Piero explained the various steps that are involved in making each piece. One of the artists brought over a piece he had just placed down to cool and Piero warned us not to touch it. He then put some common newspaper on it and watch this 8-second video to see what happened. Yikes! I am so glad I listed to Piero. https://youtube.com/shorts/-iwn1LCJWgw

We were next escorted to the showroom to look at possible pieces for purchase. Patrice picked out one piece that she liked and Piero went to check the price. He told us there would be no taxes and that the piece would be shipped for free. The vase Patrice picked out was priced at 2,400 Euros. I am happy to report that I didn’t hit my head when I fainted. When revived Patrice said, “I didn’t buy it, I didn’t buy it!” At that point, my heart rate and respiratory rate returned to normal, and I was able to continue the tour. I did like a picture frame that I saw just prior to exiting. It was priced at 120 Euros. Do you think that is reasonable? See below.

120 Euros for this? I don’t even know that woman!

After Murano, we got back on the water taxi and traveled to the nearby island of Burano. This island is home to about 3,000 people and is very picturesque, It is most famous for its colorful houses. See below.

Typical scene in Burano.
Another Burano home with a very handsome couple in front.

There are a variety of shops on the island and our guide took us to one where they did exquisite needlework. Apparently, this is a dying art since most of the young people do not want to learn the craft of making lace. We were told that some of the stitches used are only known by one person so when she dies that stitch will no longer be done. Of course, if no one is learning the techniques this method of making lace will soon be gone forever. These pieces are so precious that they are no longer used as placemats, tablecloths, collars, and doilies because of the amount of time needed to make them. We were told that a bedspread would take ten years to be made. Instead, the items are framed like a piece of art (which they are). See below.

Handmade stitchwork from Burano, Italy.
It seems as if one of the artists didn’t get the message that this is a Catholic country.

I also noted a tower in Burano that might interest you. See below.

Another leaning tower. I think a structural engineer is needed in this country.

From Burano, we headed to our final destination, the island of Torcello. According to our guide, Daria, this island is populated by 11 people (all farmers). All the people working at the shops and stands live elsewhere and travel to the island each day to work. They might only have 11 full-time inhabitants but of course, they have a church. See below a picture of the church with a sign in front.

If I understand the sign correctly, this church specializes in low back pain.

Tonight we are going to see a performance of La Traviata by Giuseppe Verde. I have never been to an opera. Well, I did see Porgy and Bess, does that count? Of course, the libretto (big word, are you impressed?) will all be in Italian so I am guessing I might get a good nap.

Take care and speak to you tomorrow.

Ciao

Europe 2022 day #8. “Welcome to Venezia (Venice)”  Venice, Italy 10/13/2022

by reissmd, posted in Italy, Venice, Italy

After leaving the Ferrari museum we stopped for a pleasant but overpriced lunch at the nearby Ristorante Montana (Via XX Settembre, 3, 41042 Fiorano Modenese MO).  The food was good as was the service but not nearly the quality we had at Donatello or Osteria Romagnola but we paid close to the same amount for our lunch as we did for dinner at the other places. 

After lunch, we had about a two-hour drive to Venice.  The city is only accessible by foot or boat so we were met at the outskirts by Federica a petite-looking woman who runs the tour company we are using in Venice.  Much to my surprise she insisted on taking BOTH of our suitcases and wanted us to hand her our backpacks too.  Oh well, for petite-looking, I wouldn’t dare mess with this lady. 

The boat ride brought us to Londra Palace (https://www.londrapalace.com/it/hotel.html) and this place really is a palace.  The hotel first opened in 1853 and has evolved through a variety of names and renovations to be the facility we are staying at today.  We were welcomed by a front desk person who took the usual information and then personally escorted us to our 3rd-floor room.  The room is very spacious (similar to our hotel in Milan) with a lovely view of the Grand Canal.

View from our room at the Londra Palace. My photography skills do not do it justice.

This is a major change from our hotel in Bologna (Hotel Touring) where we were very disappointed in the accommodations. The Hotel Touring staff was great but our room was small, the breakfast was only adequate, and the shower was microscopic.   The shower measured 27.5 inches by 35 inches.

Touring Hotel shower. Each tile measures 2.5 inches, you do the math.

In contrast, the Londra Palace is in a class by itself.  The staff is amazing.  I already told you about the front desk clerk escorting us to our 3rd-floor room.  Another clerk took us into a separate room and showed us on the map where we were located and some interesting spots to hear classical music (yes, that was Patrice who was asking about classical music. I am not that cultured).  The room is fantastic and the shower is beyond any comparison.   Not only is the shower large, but it also has a separate sitting area for your partner with its own water source. 

The main portion of the Londra Palace room shower.
Sitting area for your partner with its own water source.

In addition to the room, there is a rooftop deck with a wonderful view of the city and the Grand Canal.  The Touring Hotel also had a very nice rooftop view but not compared to this one.  Breakfast this morning was great.  We could get eggs prepared as we wished.  The pastries were fresh and delicious.  They gave us freshly squeezed orange juice.  We each had a cappuccino with a design that showed pride in workmanship.  I also ordered salmon and was embarrassed when it arrived because it was even too much for the two of us, yet for me alone.  It was the best meal of the day.  I am looking forward to breakfast tomorrow and we haven’t even had dinner tonight.

Patrice’s omlette.
Salmon for one?
Cappucino with a heart.

Speaking of dinner we had a wonderful meal last night at Bancogiro (Campo San Giacometto, Ponte di Rialto, 122, 30125 Venezia VE) where we sat outside by the Grand Canal. This place was recommended by our friend Karen and when I looked at David and Robyn’s pictures from their summer trip to Venice we saw they had been there too. I mostly mentioned dinner because I had to post a picture of the Zuppa (soup).

Happy Face soup with barley, monkfish, and other goodies.

Today we had a wonderful walking tour from our guide, Mauro.  He was full of all sorts of interesting facts about Venice and Italy.  He showed us the main sights and since he is a guide we got to bypass some very long lines.  

After a brief rest at the hotel, we were taught how to row a gondola by our guide, Elena.  It was fun and not as difficult as I thought it would be (especially with Elena doing most of the paddling).  During the “lesson” we stopped for some snacks (cicchetti) and a drink.  I had an Aperol Spritz (my son, David, and his wife, Robyn talked about them during their visit so I had to give it a try).  I really liked the drink but since my alcohol consumption is about 1 every 2-3 years I was ready to go to bed soon after.  Speaking of bed I better either have dinner or go to sleep soon because I am fading quickly.  Before I leave you please check out this video of Patrice paddling and me relaxing. https://youtube.com/shorts/YYP3qjGRsjU

Lots of fun things are planned for tomorrow.  See you then.

Ciao

Europe 2022 day #7. Robert and his new Ferrari”  Bologna, Maranello, and Venice, Italy 10/12/2022

by reissmd, posted in Bologna, Italy, Maranello, Italy, Venice, Italy

For our last night in Bologna, we had a very special dinner at Antica Osteria Romagnola (Via Rialto, 13a, 40124 Bologna BO).  This place was recommended by our friend, Dominic, who had also recommended Donatello where we dined the previous night, and had a fantastic meal.

AOR appeared to be more of a restaurant for locals rather than tourists. First of all, Google maps said we had arrived when we were in a dark alley without any sign of a restaurant.  Luckily we had the good sense to walk around the corner and realized we were previously behind the place.  We were seated in a relatively small room with 5 other parties, all of whom were speaking Italian. Our server greeted us and immediately started talking in Italian. When we identified ourselves as being ignorant of his language he said he would try to tell us about the menu with the little English that he spoke. He then proceeded to tell us all the specials of the day in PERFECT English.  We ordered the suckling pig for two which he told us cooks for 8 hours at a low temperature and then at a high temperature just before serving to warm the meat and make the skin crispy.  Eight hours is a long time to wait for your meal but lucky for us they started the process long before our arrival.  While we waited he suggested an appetizer to satisfy our hunger (Hunger? Something we haven’t experienced since we landed in Milan). The appetizer contained marinated tomatoes, Carmelized onions in balsamic vinegar, chickpeas (of all places you would think they would call them garbanzo beans in Italy) in a spicy marinade, black olives, and a mixture made with tomato, bread, and basil (a recipe from Tuscany).  We also received bread, a spread made with ricotta and cream, and mortadella (“Not baloney!” according to our server.) 

From front to back Tomato Mixture, Black Olives, Chick Peas, Carmelized Onions, Marinated Tomatoes. To the right of the platter is the ricotta/cream and to the left is the Mortadella (Not Baloney!).

I enjoyed watching the server cut the mortadella which he did repeatedly. The slicing machine was purchased in 1927 and the restaurant opened in the 1600s. The video of the server slicing the mortadella can be found here. https://youtu.be/tlfGqmifPLk

For the main course, Patrice and I shared the Suckling Pig for two. The server brought us the platter and then handed us a canister of sauce saying, “This is what makes the magic happen”. Segovia, Spain is supposed to be the home for this dish but nothing I have eaten in Segovia compared with what we had at AOR.

Suckling pig with a canister of sauce in the background.

After dinner, we asked the server if we could see the dessert menu. He told us “I am the dessert menu” after which he rattled off about 6 dessert descriptions. They all sounded wonderful but we opted to top off the night with “Apple Pie with a scoop of ice cream”. Here is the picture and you will have to tell me where is the pie. All I see is some cake.

Apple pie?

This morning we headed to Venice by private car but first a stop at the Ferrari museum. Apparently, a tour of the factory is only given to car owners so we had to settle for the museum. It has been said that Italian sports cars are magnets for hot women.  So if you are looking for a hottie consider buying one of these. 

1987 Ferarri F40. Zero to 100 km/h in 4.1 seconds. American-made Tesla Model 3 does it in 3.1 seconds)

I have to confess that it was my Italian sports car that got Patrice interested in going out with me. Here is a picture of my beauty.

1974 Fiat 128 sedan.

I never knew the 0-60 mph time for my Fiat because at 55 mph it would start vibrating as if it was about to collapse. I kept the car for 5 dangerous years. When I finally sold the car we celebrated by going out to the Palm restaurant in Beverly Hills. We almost spent all the proceeds from the sale of the car on that dinner. We saw Kareem Abdul Jabbar there that night. Do you think he would mention seeing us that night on his blog?

The Ferrari museum tour was interesting but I think I disappointed our guide when she asked if I was interested in Formula 1 and I replied, “No my wife breastfed all our children”. She showed us a lot of beautiful cars and talked about the various champion drivers from Ferrari. Unfortunately, I only remembered one of them. When she mentioned Nikki Lauda I asked “Wasn’t he the poor soul who had an accident and was burned beyond recognition?” She didn’t seem pleased.

Nikki Lauda before.
Nikki Lauda after.

After the tour, we were given two “Fan Experiences”. First, we got to drive a Ferrari simulation. It was very hard for me to get this old body in and out of the simulator but it was a lot of fun driving close to 200 km/h. I didn’t even get hurt when I drove off the track and almost crashed into the grandstand. I didn’t get hurt but I did get nauseous. Virtual reality rides are not my thing.

Patrice getting ready to ride and showing off her souvenir Ferrari hat.
Robert learning how to operate the simulator and showing off his bald head.

The other fan experience was to change a Ferrari tire. Patrice jumped right in and whipped that tire off and with a little help from me (very little) she got that tire back on. The drill used to loosen and tighten the nut was incredibly loud and I hate painfully loud noises. The guide asked if I wanted to change a tire and I told him, “No thank you, that it why I have AAA”.

We are at the hotel in Venezia (Venice) but I will give you an update tomorrow.

Ciao

Europe 2022 day #6 “Bobby Flay, I Am Not”  Bologna, Italy 10/11/2022

by reissmd, posted in Bologna, Italy

Last night we had a wonderful dinner at Ristorante Donatello (Via Augusto Righi, 8, 40126 Bologna BO) at the suggestion of our friend Dominic.  We had a luscious meal and a very interesting experience.  

Patrice tried to order the “Three Pastas”, a dish that allows you to choose three different kinds of pasta to enjoy. The waiter informed us that this was an order for a minimum of 3 people so we had to choose something else.  While waiting for our meals another couple was seated next to us and they too tried to order the “Three Pastas” selection and were given the same advice.  We joked if they had been a little earlier we could have ordered it together. They further considered their choices and then the wife said, “He will eat two portions and we will have the “Three Pastas”.  Sure enough, the three pastas came out and they proceeded to down the whole thing.  Next, the waiter brought them a large meat and potato dish and they devoured most (but not all) of that.  We were done with our meal but I had to wonder if they ordered anything else.  We thought we were overdoing it by ordering an appetizer to share and two entrees.  Their 4 entrees (and possibly more) put us to shame. 

Our appetizer (mortadella) which we enjoyed but didn’t finish.
Tagliatelle ragú which Patrice could not finish.
Our waiter said the veal was Donatello’s signature dish. It was great but too much for me to finish.

As you can see we were overmatched by these 3 reasonably sized dishes. Our new friends were in a league of their own.

Just in case we didn’t have enough food yesterday we arranged to have a cooking lesson today.  Pietro, our guide and instructor, met us at the hotel at 9:00 and escorted us to the local market.  He had all sorts of interesting information to pass along.  The market was quite a scene with hanging meats and a variety of cheeses to choose from.  We bought the necessary ingredients and then headed to the cooking school.  

Choose your pork.

Pietro then taught us the ins and outs of making pasta.  It was fascinating.  After the lesson was completed we got to enjoy the fruits of our labor, I mean we got to enjoy the pasta of our labor.  The meal was delicious and Pietro said we did an excellent job of producing the pasta ……… for beginners.  

Bobby “Flay” Reiss mixing the pasta dough.
Squeezing the potato needed for the gnocchi.
A small portion of the pasta we made.
Our answer to Bobby Flay and Julia Child beaming over our creations.

If you are going to be in Bologna and would like to learn how to make pasta contact Barbara Zaccagni at Il Salotto di Penelope by calling +39 348 8713781 or find them through Trip Advisor or their website (https://ilsalottodipenelope.it/en/home-2/). Tomorrow we leave Bologna and head for Venice.  On the way we are going to visit Ferrari and see if we can get a deal on a new car.

Ciao

Europe 2022 day #5 “Best Guide of All Time”  Bologna, Italy 10/10/2022

by reissmd, posted in Bologna, Italy

Last night we had a wonderful meal at Ristorante da Nello al Montegrappa (Via Monte Grappa, 2/b, 40121 Bologna BO) at the recommendation of our tour company (CIU Travel, info@ciutravel.com.  www.ciutravel.com).  When the hotel staff called for a reservation they were told the restaurant was all booked for the night.  Patrice and I took a chance and decided to go at the time of the opening (7 pm or as they like to say here, 1900) hoping that someone did not show up for their reservation and we could be seated.  Upon arrival, we saw about 15 people ahead of us on line and we started to discuss other options.  When the person doing the seating (I hate to call him the Maitre D’ because he looked like he was about 12) got to us he asked if we had a reservation.  When we told him no, he said, “I have a table for you but you must leave by 8:45”.  We told him, “We are Americans, we will be done by 8”.    We had a great time since the restaurant service and food were excellent. 

Patrice ordered pasta tagliatelle ragu.
I had the tagliatelle bolognese.

Today we had a new tour guide; she was by far the best we have had on this trip.  She was very relaxed about our start time.  We needed to get out of the hotel by 10 because some repairs were going to be done beginning at that time.  First, we headed over to the University of Bologna which was founded in 1088 and is the oldest University in the Western Hemisphere.  It beats my alma mater (USC founded in 1880) by about 800 years.  You would think they would have a better football team by now, wouldn’t you?  The campus was lovely with lots of young people roaming around.  I was surprised by the number of young people smoking on campus.  The main attraction at the University was the on-campus museum but unfortunately, it is closed on Mondays.  I started thinking I need to email the agency and tell them I was unhappy with the guide but I decided to reserve judgment for a bit longer. 

Next, we headed to the Bologna canals.  Bologna, like Venice, had a series of canals but many years ago they were covered in order to make the city easier to navigate.  The canals are still visible in certain areas.  Check out this picture of the canal from a nearby street.

Part of what is left of the Bologna canal system.

Next, we were off to a separate part of the University campus where they were housing the “Anatomical theater”.   We had to wait in line for quite a while and all we saw was a large amphitheater with a dissection table in the middle.  The wall sculptures were very impressive but unfortunately, the theater brought back the memory of too many intense study sessions from my medical school days to be very enjoyable.  If you want to see the theater check out this video.  https://youtu.be/rIXj0lo8hoQ

Next, we went to the Pompeii exhibit where we saw a series of frescos from the 1st century AD.  This was extremely interesting but I was having a tough time because all this walking and standing made my lower back start to ache.  I mentioned the discomfort I was having and our guide started to massage my lower back.  Oh my, did that feel good.  Here is one of the pictures from the exhibit, entitled “The Athlete”.

I don’t know what you think but he doesn’t look very athletic to me.

Next, we were off to grab a bite of lunch and finally, we went to the Salaborsa where you can see part of the old canal system.  There isn’t any water in this location but the matrix is preserved and was very interesting to see.

View of part of the remnant of the canals as seen from Salaborsa

Our tour for the day was done and our guide gave me a big hug, one more deep massage of my low back, and a kiss.  She told me she hoped I had as much fun as she did today.  

Here is a picture of me with our guide at the canal.  Isn’t she lovely?

Elizabeth, Monica, Valentina, and Giuli, you were great but Patrice is my favorite.

Ciao